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Buying a used knee scooter: what to check

A knee scooter is a few moving parts under a padded rest, and most of what can go wrong is visible in a good photo. Here is what wears, what to look for, and how our four scores map to it.

Guide4 min readThe Bidvana team

People use a knee scooter after foot or ankle surgery, usually for a few weeks, which is why used ones are common and why a used one is often a sensible buy. A scooter that has done one short job for one person has not been through much. The things to check are few and they are mostly mechanical. This guide covers what wears, what to look at in the photos, and what to read on the listing before you pay.

What actually wears

  • The knee pad. Foam compresses and the cover scuffs or splits. It is the part that touches you, so it is the first thing to look at, and it is usually the cheapest to replace if the maker sells one.
  • The wheels. Look for flat spots, cracks in the tread, and wheels that sit crooked. Small hard wheels pick up grit and wear unevenly.
  • The brake. A hand brake works through a cable and a lever. A stretched cable or a loose lever is the common fault, and it matters more than a scratch anywhere else on the frame.
  • The steering and fold joints. These are where play develops. A joint that rocks side to side when you hold the column is worn or loose.
  • The height adjustment. Most scooters raise and lower the knee rest on a pin or a clamp. Check that the holes are not stretched and that the pin or knob is there.

What to look for in the photos

On every listing the photos are of the exact unit, so you can look at the thing you would receive. A few shots are worth finding before anything else.

  1. The knee pad from above and from the side, to see whether the foam has gone flat or the cover has split.
  2. Each wheel, close enough to see the tread and the axle bolt.
  3. The brake lever and the cable where it meets the frame.
  4. Every joint, folded and unfolded if both are shown, with the locking pin or clamp visible.
  5. The frame near the welds and the base of the column, where a crack would start. A scuff in the paint is a different thing from a line in the metal.

If a photo you need is not there, the inspector’s notes often answer the question. Read them before you decide. If neither does, email us with the listing link and ask.

How our four scores map to a knee scooter

Every inspected unit is scored on four facets, and each one means something specific here. The full scale is on how we rate condition.

  • Cosmetic. Scuffs on the frame and wear on the knee pad. A faint mark on the frame is normal for a used scooter and does not change how it rolls. Heavy wear on the pad is worth a look at the photo.
  • Function. Whether it rolls, steers, brakes and adjusts. If a unit was not tested, the report says Not tested and gives the reason, and nothing is assumed in our favour. Treat that the way you would treat an untested used item anywhere else.
  • Completeness. The parts that belong with it. For a scooter that can mean the knee pad, the brake cable, a basket, a folding tool, a manual or a lock pin. Missing a trivial item is a manual. Missing a core part is something the scooter cannot do without, and it is named on the listing.
  • Packaging. The box. It matters for a gift and for storage, and hardly at all for a scooter you will use this week.

A green chip on function and completeness with an amber one on cosmetic is a good combination for this kind of product. The reverse, a clean frame with a red function chip, is not.

Size and weight limits to read first

A scooter has to fit the person using it, so read these on the listing before anything else. They are printed on the product page or in the specifications, and they are the maker’s figures, not ours.

  • Weight capacity. It is a limit, not a target. Do not buy a scooter rated close to your weight.
  • User height range. Makers give a range for the user, and a range for how far the knee rest adjusts. Make sure the range covers you with a little room at each end.
  • Which leg. Most scooters work for either leg. If the knee rest is offset or shaped for one side, the listing or the maker’s manual says so.
  • Folded size and weight. If you will lift it into a car, the weight matters as much as the dimensions.
  • Wheel size. Larger wheels roll over thresholds and rough ground more easily than small ones.

Before you buy

Every unit is sold as-is and final sale, so the report is what we stand behind. The return window is 3 days from delivery, and it covers a unit that did not match its report. There is no change-of-mind return, so be sure the size fits before you order. When the scooter arrives, check the brake and the joints first, then the pad, and compare what you find with what the listing said.

If you are comparing several, put the weight limit and height range for each side by side, then use the four chips to rank what is left. The cheapest unit is rarely the one with the best scores. The best one is the one whose scores match your plan for it.

Browse knee scooters

Keep reading

  • Four scores, the words behind them, the chips on the card and the photo rule: everything you need to know what a unit is really like before you buy it.

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